Timeless Places

Aba, Sichuan, China

Jiuzhaigou Valley

九寨沟 · Jiǔzhàigōu

More than a hundred lakes step down a mountain valley like stairs, joined by waterfalls, in water so clear you can see the trees lying on the bottom. World Heritage since 1992.

Photo: Chensiyuan, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

The story

The name means "valley of nine villages", after nine Tibetan villages inside it. The lakes here are called haizi, "sons of the sea". More than a hundred of them step down the valley like a staircase, joined by waterfalls and streams.

In Five Flower Lake in front of you, one sheet of water shows blue, green and yellow at once, and the fallen trunks on the bottom are perfectly clear. A Chinese saying goes: after Huangshan you need see no other mountain, after Jiuzhaigou no other water.

What is here

The park is one valley shaped like a Y, about 30 kilometres from the gate to the far ends, and one ticket covers all of it. What matters is knowing that there are three branches, each with its own lakes, and that you need the park bus to reach them. The bus is a separate ticket, in practice bought together with the entry ticket.

PartTicket
Zechawa branch: Long Lake and the Five-Colour PondIncluded
Rize branch: Five Flower Lake, Pearl Shoal and its waterfall, Mirror LakeIncluded
Nuorilang Falls, where the branches meetIncluded
Shuzheng branch: the Shuzheng Lakes, Sparkling Lake, Shuzheng villageIncluded
The park buses between the stopsSeparate bus ticket, 90 yuan in the high season
Huanglong, the lime pools to the southA different park with its own ticket and booking

If you have one minute

At the Five Flower Lake viewpoint

Five Flower Lake in autumn
Five Flower Lake in autumnCulantor Lin, CC BY-SA 2.0

Why is the water so clear? It comes from snowfields and from underground, and runs through limestone. Almost nothing floats in it, so light reaches a long way down.

Why several colours? Where the lake is shallow you are seeing the pale yellow lime crust and the water plants on the bottom. Where it is deep you see blue. The trees and hills on the shore are reflected in as well. One lake becomes a palette.

Why do the logs on the bottom not rot? A tree that falls in is slowly coated with a crust of lime from the water. Many of the trunks you can see are white on the surface.

Autumn is the best season. The coloured forest on the slopes is reflected in the water and the lake has more colours than at any other time.

The people of this valley

The nine villages are Tibetan, and people have farmed and herded here for centuries. You will see prayer flags on poles and strung across streams, white stupas, and small mills where the water turns a prayer wheel all day. They are acts of devotion, not decoration.

Many families in this region follow Bön, Tibet's older religion, alongside Buddhism. Bön pilgrims walk round holy places anticlockwise, the opposite of Buddhists. If you are not sure which way to go round a stupa or a temple, follow the people in front of you.

Go deeper: six stops, from the highest lake down to the valley mouth

1. Long Lake and the Five-Colour Pond: the top of the valley

Long Lake, the highest and largest
Long Lake, the highest and largestSuicasmo, CC0

Long Lake lies at the end of the Zechawa branch at about 3,060 metres. At about 1.5 square kilometres it is the largest and highest lake in the park, with snow peaks and forest all round. It often freezes in winter.

Just below it the Five-Colour Pond is tiny and a startling blue-green. This is the highest point of the visit, so walk slowly.

2. Five Flower Lake and Pearl Shoal: why the water is blue-green

The waterfall below Pearl Shoal
The waterfall below Pearl ShoalCEphoto, Uwe Aranas, CC BY-SA 3.0

Sun Geng, a researcher at the Chengdu Institute of Biology of the Chinese Academy of Sciences, gives three causes. Physics: there is so little floating in the water that red, orange and yellow light is absorbed and the short blue wavelengths are scattered back.

Chemistry: calcium, magnesium and bicarbonate in the water form particles of lime between 0.1 and 0.45 thousandths of a millimetre across, which are very good at scattering blue and green light. Biology: algae and water plants reflect the light once more and add layers of colour. Depth, season, weather and where you stand do the rest.

It is not dyed. In July 2026 a video claiming the lakes were coloured with dye went round online. The park administration answered that it had not been filmed in Jiuzhaigou.

At Pearl Shoal the water runs across a wide sloping bank of lime and breaks into drops like pearls, then falls over the edge as a waterfall. The boardwalk is wet. Hold on to small children.

3. Nuorilang Falls: broken by an earthquake and grown back

Nuorilang Falls from the air in 2023, after the repair
Nuorilang Falls from the air in 2023, after the repairChensiyuan, CC BY-SA 4.0

Nuorilang stands where the valley forks, and is one of the widest waterfalls in the park. The name means "grand" in Tibetan. Its lip is not ordinary rock. It is lime laid down by the water, layer on layer, over more than ten thousand years.

In the earthquake of 8 August 2017 about 20 metres of the lip collapsed, and the great curtain of water shrank to a trickle. A team from Southwest University of Science and Technology repaired it with the same lime and the same microbes, so that the fall could grow its own crust back. By June 2018 it looked as it had before.

4. The Shuzheng Lakes: a staircase of water

A water mill among the Shuzheng Lakes
A water mill among the Shuzheng LakesCEphoto, Uwe Aranas, CC BY-SA 3.0

Lakes large and small step down the valley here. Between each level is a dam built of lime, and the water spills over the top as a low waterfall.

For children: picture a row of water jars set on steps. The more water flows, the higher the rims grow, because the lime in the water settles on them little by little.

Shuzheng village is beside the lakes, with Tibetan houses, prayer flags and a water mill.

5. Sparkling Lake: the lake the earthquake drained

Sparkling Lake lies in the Shuzheng valley between Double Dragon Lake and Sleeping Dragon Lake. When the sun is low the surface flashes like sparks.

In 2017 its dam burst, leaving a gap 40 metres long, 12 wide and 15 deep, and the lake almost emptied. Chengdu University of Technology led the repair and it reopened before October 2020. Below the mended dam there is now a waterfall that was not there before.

A question to talk over: when nature damages a natural heritage site, should people mend it or leave it alone? The answer here was to let nature do most of the work and to help only where needed.

6. The valley mouth: nine villages and a history of logging

Shuzheng village in autumn
Shuzheng village in autumnChensiyuan, CC BY-SA 4.0

The valley was heavily logged until about 1979. In 1978 the State Council approved a nature reserve here, and in 1984 it opened to visitors. About 5,000 people came that year.

Today no one may stay overnight inside the valley. You move by park bus and on foot along the boardwalks.

The same landscape elsewhere, and a song

Huanglong, also in northern Sichuan, has coloured pools built of the same lime and is often visited on the same trip. It is a different park with its own ticket.

Pamukkale in Turkey and the Plitvice Lakes in Croatia are the best-known lime terraces and stepped lakes outside China. Compare how each staircase of water was made.

For many Chinese the first idea of this place came from a song, Magical Jiuzhai, made famous by the Tibetan singer Rongzhong Erjia.

Meanwhile in the world

YearHereElsewhere
Over 10,000 yearsLime settles layer by layer and builds the dams and fallsPeople turn from hunting and gathering to farming
1978A nature reserve is approvedChina's reform and opening begins
1984Opens to visitors; about 5,000 come that yearChina returns to the Summer Olympics, at Los Angeles
1992Listed as World HeritageHuanglong and Wulingyuan are listed the same year, China's first purely natural sites
8 August 2017A magnitude 7.0 earthquake damages Nuorilang, Sparkling Lake and more–
28 September 2021The whole park reopens–

One line to remember: every dam and waterfall here was built by the water, and after the earthquake the water was helped to build them again.

Local legends

These are stories people tell about this place. They are legends, not history, and each one says where it comes from.

LegendHow the lakes were made

A mountain god polished a mirror out of wind and cloud for a goddess. She dropped it, and it broke into 108 pieces, which became the lakes of the valley.

Source: Told by guides; we found no written source

Later, people who live here will be able to add the stories they grew up with, and say which of these they have heard.

Not certain, and where accounts conflict

How many lakes?
108 is the usual figure and matches the legend. Other counts give 114, or simply "over a hundred". We say more than a hundred.
How big is Nuorilang?
Widths from 100 to 320 metres and heights from 20 to over 30 metres are all in print. We give no figure.
Where was Journey to the West filmed?
The 1986 television series shot its travellers walking above a waterfall here. Some say Nuorilang, some say Pearl Shoal, and it may have been both. We could not confirm it from a first-hand source.
Which lake is in the film Hero?
The fight on the water in Zhang Yimou's film of 2002 is usually placed at Arrow Bamboo Lake. We found this only in travel writing.
When did logging stop?
1979 in one account; the reserve itself dates from 1978. We say about 1979.
Ticket price in the high season
Most 2026 reports give 190 yuan plus 90 for the bus. A few give 169 plus 90.
Bön and the direction of walking
The note on Bön in this region comes from general reference works and was not checked on site for this page.

Visiting

Tickets and hours

  • Reports for 2026: from 1 April to 15 November the entry ticket is 190 yuan and the park bus 90 yuan, 280 yuan in all. From 16 November to 31 March it is 80 yuan plus 80 yuan.
  • Nothing is sold at the gate. Everyone, including those who enter free, books by real name in the WeChat mini-programme 九寨沟旅游官方平台 or the official account 九寨沟. Tickets are released 7 to 14 days ahead and the daily number is capped, at about 41,000 in the high season.
  • We could not confirm whether the mini-programme accepts a foreign passport. If it does not, ask your hotel at the valley mouth or a travel agency to book for you.
  • Parts of the park can close after heavy rain. In late July 2026 a mudflow shut some areas for a time. Check the park's notices just before you go.

Last checked 2026-11-11. Travel and news reports, not the site's own notices.

Where to start

  • The valley is shaped like a Y. Take the park bus from the gate straight to the top of one branch, then walk and ride downhill. A common order: Long Lake first, back to Nuorilang, up the other branch to Five Flower Lake and Pearl Shoal, then down the Shuzheng valley to the gate.
  • It takes a full day. The park buses run like city buses: get off and on at any stop.

Before you go

  • The valley lies between about 2,000 and 3,100 metres. Most people feel fine, but walk slowly at Long Lake and drink water.
  • It is cool even in summer and the weather turns quickly. Bring a jacket and a rain layer.
  • You cannot stay overnight inside the park. Hotels are at the valley mouth.
  • Stay on the boardwalks, and do not touch the water or throw anything in. The lime crust that builds the lakes is easily damaged.
  • Bring your passport. It is checked at the gate against the booking.

Customs and manners

  • Prayer flags, stupas and mani stones are sacred. Do not step over flags lying on the ground, sit on a stupa, or take stones away.
  • Prayer wheels are turned clockwise. Turn one gently if you wish, but do not stop one that the water is turning.
  • The villages are homes. Ask before you photograph a person or step into a courtyard.
  • If you are offered butter tea or barley wine in a house, a small sip is polite even if you do not finish it.

Look for these

  1. Count the colours you can see in Five Flower Lake.
  2. Find a tree trunk on the bottom of a lake. What colour is its surface, and why?
  3. At the Shuzheng Lakes, find a dam made of lime. How does the water get from one lake to the next?
  4. Compare the two pictures of Nuorilang on this page, 2015 and 2023. Can you see where the fall has changed?
  5. At Sparkling Lake, find the new waterfall below the mended dam.
  6. In Shuzheng village, find the prayer flags and the water mill. What is the water turning?
  7. At Long Lake, notice your breathing. Is it faster than at the gate?

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